SPF Through the Ages: Sun Protection for Every Generation of Skin

In recent years, SPF formulations and consumer expectations have undergone a significant transformation. While the core purpose of SPF remains the same (protecting skin from harmful UV rays and sun damage), today’s consumers are demanding more. There's a clear shift toward multi-functional, skin-type-specific protection that aligns with diverse lifestyles, life stages, and individual skincare needs.

So, let’s shed some light (excuse the pun) on SPF needs across these different age and skin categories. From sensitive infant skin to hormonal shifts in mature skin, to help keep your formulations relevant and future-proof.

Baby Steps: SPF for the Youngest and Most Sensitive

For our littlest consumers, SPF must meet the highest standards of safety and efficacy. Parents are seeking SPF 50+ mineral sunscreens, often with Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide, that are broad-spectrum, hypoallergenic, and free from fragrances and irritants.

Key Needs:

SPF 50+, broad-spectrum, mineral-based, water-resistant, gentle on sensitive skin, UV protection boosters.

Formulation Considerations:

• Blue sunscreen sticks: a clever innovation, these lightly tinted sticks help ensure thorough coverage and double as a visual UV check tool (when they fade, it’s time to reapply)

• Gentle formulas that are fragrance-free and often include organic acid-based preservatives such as Sodium Benzoate/Benzoic Acid, Potassium Sorbate/Sorbic Acid.

• Waterproof & broad-spectrum formulas: Especially vital for poolside and outdoor play.

• UV protection boosters, such as dispersion agents, film-formers, and photostabilisers, enhance the performance and longevity of the formulation.

 Our Ingredient Picks:  

• Neocare P3R  (Gobiotics by Sweetch) is a great choice for an emulsifier as it not only has SPF boosting properties, but it also enhances water resistance, perfect for use within sunscreens.

• Allantoin / DL-Panthenol (dsm-firmenich) with their anti-irritation properties, are considered skin soothing ingredients suitable for younger, sensitive prone skin.

• Hexam and Easysafe Hexam+ (Minasolve) - Looking for gentle preservatives? Mild alternatives like these include an added anti-microbial effect suitable for infant and younger skin.

• Biolin P (Gobiotics by Sweetch) is a protective ingredient that contributes to the skin barrier function and microbiome balance, which can be easily disrupted in infant skin.

• Parsol TX and Parsol ZX  – (dsm-firmenich) are filters which offer high-performance UVA protection in SPF formulations. Parsol TX is also 99.5% purity, and Parsol ZX can be easily used in mineral or natural sunscreen products.

Teen Years: Smart Sun Care for Sensitive, Changing Skin

For the teenage group, the goal is to provide acne-friendly SPF, while protecting against early photoaging. This group demands gel-based, lightweight or hybrid SPF-moisturisers that feel like skincare and look invisible on the skin (as most tend to avoid sun creams that leave a white cast).

Key Needs:

Lightweight, hybrid (SPF + skincare), with an invisible finish.

Formulation Considerations:

• Think about actives that are still beneficial but pair well with SPF like Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, and Panthenol, as well as prebiotics to help the microbiome recover after sun exposure.

• Mattifying or oil-reducing actives such as Alpaflor Alp-Sebum CB (by dsm-firmenich) which has anti-acne properties, reducing the skin's sebum production and also Valvance touch 210 (Silica) (by dsm-firmenich) which creates a matte effect, reduced shine and has faster absorption.

• Avoid heavy oils and opt for emollients and esters that offer light textures such as Isoamyl Laurate, Isoamyl Cocoate, Jojoba esters and alkanes.

Our Ingredient Picks:

• DISTINCTIVE® SunBooster (Vantage Personal Care) is a lightweight, multifunctional emollient that enhances SPF performance and optimises pigment dispersion. It also minimises white cast on all skin tones to improve spreadability and sensorial appeal.

• Gosulin IL MB (Gobiotics by Sweetch) improves spreadability of a product, reduces tackiness and is great for dispersing SPF formulations.

• Prebiulin FOS (Gobiotics by Sweetch) which protects the skin barrier, reduces irritation, and has anti-blemish properties, which restores the skin microbiota in acne-prone skin.

• RESCONCEPT SUN SPF 50+ Eco Star (Sharon Personal Care) if younger audiences are looking for marine and eco-conscious options, this is a great alternative for sunscreens. It's cold-process design offers energy-efficient production and offers UVA and UVB protection with a Boots 3-star rating.

Mature Skin: Protection Meets Prevention and Correction

Key Needs:

Moisturising, high SPF, antioxidant-rich, anti-ageing, thicker textures, evening of skin tone.

As skin matures, SPF must do more than protect; it must correct and preserve. Those who fall into the mature skin category are seeking a broad-spectrum SPF that includes moisturising agents, peptides, and antioxidants to prevent and reduce the signs of ageing.

Formulation Considerations:

• Anti-ageing hybrids that combine SPF, retinol alternatives and brightening agents

• SPF products with tinted coverage to counteract dullness and hyperpigmentation

• Creamy, nourishing textures that feel luxurious and double as a primer or base layer

Our Ingredient Pick:

• SYN-UP® (dsm-firmenich) is a peptide which boosts the skin's resilience by inhibiting the effects of urokinase and plasmin. It reduces signs of ageing such as wrinkles, sagging skin and uneven skin tone (with significant age spot reduction).

• Biodine V (Gobiotics by Sweetch) is able to provide an immediate and long-lasting repair of the skin barrier by filling the gaps where skin lipids are missing to prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

• Blueberry NECTA (The Upcycled Beauty Company) is a natural antioxidant that protects against blue light exposure and is a natural source of retinol. It also increases skin hydration through enhanced barrier protection.

• Algaktiv Collage (Algaktiv) deeply hydrates the skin, is backed by instant eye-lift data, and offers a 2-in-1 complex that restructures and nourishes the skin matrix from within.

• Parsol 1789, Parsol Shield, Parsol EHT (TriPro system) can be used together for a broad-spectrum, high-performing organic UVA and UVB filters for overall reliable protection.

 Special Consideration: Menopausal or Pregnancy-Related SPF Needs

Key Needs:

Melasma protection, multi-functional actives, added antioxidants and barrier support.

During pregnancy and menopause, hormonal changes can increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight and raise the risk of melasma and melanoma. It also increases hot flushes, redness and dryness, which are all things to be considered when formulating, to help create sunscreens that perform but are non-disruptive to this category.

Formulation Considerations:

• Dermatologists recommend a constant top-up of SPF for this age category so a formula that’s easy to apply and broad spectrum is preferable

• Lightening actives that help reduce the appearance of melasma

• Safe to use actives such as PEPHA-AGE CB, PEPHA-CTIVE CB

• Barrier repair ingredients that are safe and gentle to use include ceramides such as Ceramide TIC 001, Bio-Signal Lipid 10 MB

Our Ingredient Pick:

• ALPHA-ARBUTIN (dsm-firmenich) is a biosynthetic glycoside with excellent skin-lightening properties for a more even skin tone.  It can effectively inhibit melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase and also reduce the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure.

• RetinART (ALGAKTIV) a recommended ingredient for menopausal skin, it helps with elasticity and wrinkle depth in the skin with its anti-ageing/anti-photo-ageing properties. It fights hyperpigmentation, outperforming retinol (and a more gentle alternative).

• Lipodisq Skin Brightener PE Solution (Malvern Cosmeceutics) is an encapsulated active agent with a biodegradable particle system developed specifically to deliver Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate into the deeper layers of the skin. This active promotes even skin tone and reverses age-spot related pigmentation.

• Pantrofina Klamath (Sharon Personal Care) acts as an anti–inflammatory, strengthening the skin barrier function. Its powerful blue algae powder also imparts blue light protection.

• Barley TONIQ^TM (The Upcycled Beauty Company) is made from a by-product of beer production. This soothing active works to rebalance irritated skin and is ideal for sensitive skin categories.

• Vitamin B12 (dsm-firmenich) helps with skin prone to hot flushes/redness and is a dermatological treatment for skin conditions such as itchy, dry, inflamed, red and cracked skin. It also helps prevent photo-damaged skin.

Top Tip: dsm-firmenich - SUNSCREEN OPTIMIZER™ Tool

Need some guidance to formulate the perfect SPF product? Access to the free, online DSM SUNSCREEN OPTIMIZER™ tool, can help you develop and fine-tune sunscreen formulations before beginning SPF testing, and to perform an evaluation of the ecological impact of the UV filter combination of choice.

Partner with us for your next SPF formulation, and let us help you deliver not just performance, but tailored SPF for different skin types.

Talk to us about:

• UV filter systems (UVA, UVB) with both mineral and organic options

• Film-formers and dispersants

• Bio-based emulsifiers

• SPF-friendly actives

• SPF boosting ingredients

Let us support you with your next innovation. Get in touch today.